This top 10 is for you if you want to surf better. Better yet: this top 10 is for you if you want to enjoy surfing (even) more. Don’t expect miracles. Do expect subtle changes and more fun. Skip straight to tip 10 if you’re already a seasoned pro.
Header photo by Marie Pfisterer
SURF!
Without wanting to sound like a simpleton, the first and very best tip is just go SURF! Surf shitty waves. Surf when it’s onshore. Surf knee-high dribbly mushy stuff. Every now and then, try surfing waves that are a little beyond your comfort zone. Surf busy line-ups: great for improving your navigation skills and fine-tuning the art of controlling your board. Seek seclusion and surf empty line-ups: a fine time to try out new moves, boards, fins and everythings, without fear of feeling any kook-shame. Surf all the above and you’ll appreciate the perfect mornings with glassy clean perfect peeling waves, just you and your besties, even more.
Photo by Teddy Lauren
MIND SURF
If you can’t surf, if you’re landlocked, if your home break isn’t delivering, take time to mind surf. Visualisation is one of the most powerful tools you can use to bring your dream to reality. Visualising a certain move or action activates your neural pathways – in turn, this will make you feel more confident and attuned, whether learning a new skill or calming your nerves in scary situations. The key is to create such a clear mental image that your mind believes you’re doing what you imagine. In effect, programming your brain. As author James R Doty, MD, says in Mind Magic: “Visualisation works because, amazingly, the brain does not distinguish between an actual physical experience and one that is intensely imagined.” Believe it, commit to it, get yourself into a meditative state, no distractions, close your eyes, count down from ten to one on every breath out. See, feel, hear yourself paddling into that wave and away you go. Mind Style!
Photo by Marie Pfisterer
OBSERVE
You can learn a lot from observing other surfers. Watch those that surf with ease. They don’t have to be the biggest hotshots in the line-up, but they catch waves easily. Study the details. Notice how they navigate the line-up, choose waves, pop up, and position their hands, feet and bodies. While I may still suck at surfing most of the time, by watching my fellow surfers I’ve picked up tiny technicalities that, repeated over time, have improved my surfing. Details like how to use your body weight while paddling into a wave, pushing your chest and chin down and raising your hips at the last moment if you need extra momentum. Just try one or two new things at a time and keep repeating them. Attention to details can help fine-tune your surfing.
Photo by Jeffrey Vonk
ALL HANDS ON DECK
Put your hands on the board instead of holding the rail while popping up. While many of us learned to hold the rails in the early stages of our learning journey, it’s one of the first things we need to remember to forget! Hands on deck help to balance, glide and steer your board.
LOOK
Don’t look down. Look where you want to go. Not only does it help a lot to see what’s or who’s ahead of you, your body also gets the message and helps shift you in the right direction. And on steeper or bigger waves, it helps you take off with more confidence (and less chance of nose-diving).
Photo by Bart van der Kamp
TRAIN STRENGTH AND FLEXIBILITY
Sounds obvious, but really, lack of it can cause serious injuries. The ones that creep in slowly and are here to stay. (Low back pains, stiff shoulders, anyone?) The best way to build paddle strength, no doubt about it, is paddling. Next: swimming, push-ups, planks, exercises to strengthen your core and back muscles. How’s that? Next time you’re paddling, analyse what you’re doing and where your power’s coming from. It’s a combination of muscle power and flexibility. Your chest is up, legs are up and closed together. When you pop up, it’s your arms, shoulders, legs, butt and core that are working. When you want to make smooth turns, ideally your legs compress and extend, and hips, waist and chest easily twist and open. If done regularly, yoga or Pilates combined with strength-building exercises will truly help keep you surf-fit.
Photo by Marie Pfisterer
FAIL
Fail miserably and try again. I remember my very first wetsuit. It was a second-hand, well worn (out) O’Neill. On the inside, the shortest but most inspiring advice was written. I was reminded to ‘Surf. And try again.’ every time I hung it up to dry. Even after the shittiest of sessions, that message kept it real. Paddle back out after a failure. One of the best things about surfing is that it’s never the same, and you keep learning. So, surf. And try again.
Photo by Geert-Jan Middelkoop
TAKE NOTES
I know this sounds geeky at best or nerdy at least, but try to keep track of your sessions, the place and time, the waves and wind, the board you used, the crowd, the vibe. All of that, even noting your mood, helps you find your ideal surf circumstances, and fav board for them. The conclusion; an honest record of your level, as well as what you want to improve. And great memories to read in years to come. So, here goes: “Dear diary, …”.
GET FILMED
There’s nothing more confronting than seeing yourself surf. No, you didn’t create a big spray on that turn, your toes weren’t really on the nose, and the wave wasn’t actually that big. Oh. Bummer. But what you learn from watching that little vid back, is that next time you place your feet a little less wide, you might try turning your board back to the breaking part of the wave to gain speed, and err.. the arms, what are you going to do with your arms? Ask your buddy, partner, or better half to film a few of your waves, just with their phones will do. Then analyse after. Or: learn from a pro. Video analysis is offered online and offline and is – however humbling – extremely helpful.
Photo by Marie Pfisterer
BEACH CLEAN
A scientifically* proven method to catch better waves is to clean up your beach. Picking up rubbish while walking back after a surf is rewarded with a perfect wave during your next session. Don’t believe us? Ha! Try it. Keep trying!
(* = nah, not really, but then again, it’s not rocket science is it, keeping your playground clean and healthy? Better yet, why not join or support your local Surfrider Foundation?)
Photo by Bart van der Kamp
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